I really liked your information. There is only (for me one consideration)….i see that most street tables are far to low for comfortable working. A good street table 40 inches (1 Meter) high. If you look at the streetdrawings of past ages you will see those tables in France a lot. They used higher tables for a good reason! Nowadays most streetmagicians have to bow to pick thing up from their table. I think (but who am I) its far more elegant to stand up right and pick things from the table. ( a suggestion by Bob Read who told me this when I was young!) A further advantage is the distance between the table top and your pockets or pouch for loading actions, adding less movement and easier loading actions. Anyway just my personal feelings because I’m used to higher tables since 1980 when starting the word the streets in the Netherlands. John Anders
Wow brilliant yes I believe you are absolutely right. I use a low table and sometimes even stools because of certain moves bending down and to draw them in closer, and also my habit of working without a table most of my life leaves my act using a table more as a prop or flash. Also I use a lower table for kids to be able to see and reach for things on the table. I have worked worked with taller tables and it made the magic more comfortable, cleaner, and as you say more elegant no question, in fact I believe if the act is a true table act especially if it's a parlor or circle show act it should absolutely be taller then mine. I'm glad you mentioned it, I wish I would have said it in the article lol thank you so much.
This information is very helpful, Jimmy. Building a close-up table for street magic is on my do-to list. Adding a hook to the stand is a great idea; I will add that to my design.
The only thing this rig doesn't provide is a double-sided tabletop. I need a padded surface for card magic and a flat, smooth side for dice stacking. Attaching a thin piece of laminate to the underside of the board should do the trick.
I would love to see your finished product. Eric Evans again in his book ,suggests that you could finish up the bottom and cover up all the staples and material by screwing in a piece of Masonite. I didn't sand mine before i wrapped it, but I probably should have, I was just lazy and wanted it finished. The whole thing is really a lot quicker and easier than it seems before you buy the stuff you need, but once you get going it's a breeze.
I really liked your information. There is only (for me one consideration)….i see that most street tables are far to low for comfortable working. A good street table 40 inches (1 Meter) high. If you look at the streetdrawings of past ages you will see those tables in France a lot. They used higher tables for a good reason! Nowadays most streetmagicians have to bow to pick thing up from their table. I think (but who am I) its far more elegant to stand up right and pick things from the table. ( a suggestion by Bob Read who told me this when I was young!) A further advantage is the distance between the table top and your pockets or pouch for loading actions, adding less movement and easier loading actions. Anyway just my personal feelings because I’m used to higher tables since 1980 when starting the word the streets in the Netherlands. John Anders
Wow brilliant yes I believe you are absolutely right. I use a low table and sometimes even stools because of certain moves bending down and to draw them in closer, and also my habit of working without a table most of my life leaves my act using a table more as a prop or flash. Also I use a lower table for kids to be able to see and reach for things on the table. I have worked worked with taller tables and it made the magic more comfortable, cleaner, and as you say more elegant no question, in fact I believe if the act is a true table act especially if it's a parlor or circle show act it should absolutely be taller then mine. I'm glad you mentioned it, I wish I would have said it in the article lol thank you so much.
Also my final load from the table bag looks terrible with such a low table, my teacher uses a taller one and it's invisible.
This information is very helpful, Jimmy. Building a close-up table for street magic is on my do-to list. Adding a hook to the stand is a great idea; I will add that to my design.
The only thing this rig doesn't provide is a double-sided tabletop. I need a padded surface for card magic and a flat, smooth side for dice stacking. Attaching a thin piece of laminate to the underside of the board should do the trick.
I would love to see your finished product. Eric Evans again in his book ,suggests that you could finish up the bottom and cover up all the staples and material by screwing in a piece of Masonite. I didn't sand mine before i wrapped it, but I probably should have, I was just lazy and wanted it finished. The whole thing is really a lot quicker and easier than it seems before you buy the stuff you need, but once you get going it's a breeze.